Tree and limb impact
A heavy limb punches through shingles and sheathing, leaving a hole that lets in rain. The damage is both structural and water-related, and the opening has to be covered before drying can succeed.
Drying and cleanup after a Puget Sound windstorm or soaking front drives rain through a Seattle roof, attic or wall.
Fastest: call (833) 490-5225. Or send this and we call you back.
Storm damage restoration in Seattle covers the water that gets in after wind opens a roof or a limb falls: extraction, tarping coordination, drying and a documented scope for your insurer. Seattle Water Damage Restoration answers phones 24/7 and schedules same day when a technician is free. Roof repair itself belongs to a roofer.
Puget Sound storms come in two flavors, and both do damage. A windstorm brings down limbs and sometimes whole trees onto roofs, fences and cars. A long, soaking front, the kind that arrives between October and March, finds the weak points in a roof over days rather than minutes. The second kind is less dramatic and more common.
Seattle is full of evergreens and big maples, often standing right beside the houses. When a heavy limb comes down, the roof deck breaks open, and rain falls into the attic, onto the insulation and through the ceiling drywall below. Even without a fall, wind can lift shingles and push rain sideways under flashing, so the first sign may be a stain on a bedroom ceiling the next morning.
The restoration work begins after the storm has passed or the opening is covered. A roofer or tarp crew closes the roof, then the water is extracted and the attic, ceilings and walls are dried and cleaned. This page explains what to document, what to do first and how the drying works.
Stay away from downed power lines and anything touching them, and do not climb onto a wet or damaged roof. Call (833) 490-5225 for the water, and a roofer for the opening.
Stay away from downed power lines and any limb still leaning on the house. A tree service or roofer deals with the wood; a restoration crew does not climb onto a damaged roof.
A roofer places a temporary tarp or board-up so more rain stays out. Ask for the receipt, because temporary protection is usually part of a claim.
Water is extracted from carpet and floors, and wet insulation is removed from the attic. Sagging ceiling drywall is cut open so trapped water can drain, which also prevents a sudden collapse.
Dehumidifiers and air movers run in the living areas, and the attic gets airflow too. Moisture readings in rafters, sheathing and framing guide the schedule.
Photographs, readings and a written scope go to your insurer. Keep any damaged materials until the adjuster has seen them, if you can.
Storm jobs combine water work with roof repair, and only the water work is ours. We have no Seattle price, so the figures below are national.
| Job | Typical range | What it includes |
|---|---|---|
| Typical total for a water damage job (national) | $1,305–$5,707, average about $3,455 | Bob Vila, citing Angi and HomeAdvisor data; a national figure, not a Seattle price |
| Average spend per job (national) | $1,364–$6,301, average about $3,833 | HomeAdvisor 2025; the same guide gives $3.50–$7.50 per sq ft nationally |
| Cost per sq ft by water category (national) | Category 1 $3–$4, Category 2 $4–$6.50, Category 3 $7–$7.50 | Repeated across several national guides; not a Seattle quote |
| Temporary roof tarp or board-up | Quoted on site | Paid to the roofer or tarp crew; amount depends on the opening and access |
Estimates only. Every dollar figure above is a national figure from the publisher named, not a Seattle or Washington price. Your own price is confirmed on site, and put in writing, before any work starts.
Get everyone out from under the damaged area, keep away from any power lines, and photograph the damage from the ground. Call a roofer or tarp service to close the opening, then call a restoration crew for the wet insulation and ceilings. Do not climb onto the roof.
Safety comes before saving property. A limb that has come down can still shift, and a wet roof is slippery.
Inside, move furniture away from drips and catch water in buckets. If a ceiling is bulging, a technician may need to relieve it, so say so on the call.
Months of damp let moss and needles build up on shingles, gutters clog, and flashing weakens. Then wind and sustained rain arrive together. The result is leaks at weak points that were invisible in dry weather, often showing up in ceilings days later.
A single wet day rarely does the damage. It is the weeks of dampness that soften roof edges, lift shingles and rot fascia boards, so the next storm finds an easy way in.
That is also why a stain can lag the storm. Water soaks insulation first, sits there, and only reaches the drywall after the insulation is full.
Photograph the exterior and interior before cleanup, keep receipts for tarping and repairs, and ask for moisture readings from the drying crew. Report the claim promptly and keep damaged materials if you can. Coverage is decided by your insurer under your own policy.
Date-stamped photographs of the tree, the roof opening and the wet rooms are the strongest evidence. Wide shots first, then close-ups.
Write down what you did and when: who you called, what was covered, when the tarp went on. A short log is easier to hand to an adjuster than a memory.
If the storm caused several kinds of loss, a flooded yard and a leaking roof, treat them separately. Wind and flood are handled differently in most policies.
A heavy limb punches through shingles and sheathing, leaving a hole that lets in rain. The damage is both structural and water-related, and the opening has to be covered before drying can succeed.
Rain pushed horizontally can get under flashing, around chimneys and through window frames with no visible roof damage. The water travels inside the wall, and drying must reach the cavity.
Gutters and downspouts full of needles overflow against fascia and siding, and water enters at eaves and the base of the wall. Prevention is cheaper than repair.
Evergreens and large deciduous trees are part of Seattle's character, and many sit within falling distance of a house. In a December windstorm, roots loosened by weeks of wet soil are less able to hold, and trees come down more easily.
Older roofs under tree cover collect moss, which holds moisture against the shingles and lifts their edges. Cedar shake, composition shingle and older flat or low-slope roofs each have their own weak points.
Power outages often follow storms here, which affects sump pumps. A basement that stays dry on normal days can take water when the power goes out and the pump stops.
Tell us what's happening and we'll tell you honestly whether it's a quick fix, and what storm damage restoration should cost.
Not sure if you're covered? Check your ZIP code.
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Draining, drying and assessing a wet ceiling in a Seattle house, from an upstairs bathroom or a roof leak.
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No. A roofer repairs or tarps the roof. We extract the water and dry the attic, ceilings and walls. We tell you early if the opening needs closing so the drying does not start while rain is still coming in.
As soon as it is safe. Wet insulation and drywall start to grow mold in a mild, damp climate within a day or two, and the EPA advises drying within 24 to 48 hours. Cover the opening first, then dry.
Wind and tree damage is commonly covered under homeowners policies, but conditions and deductibles vary. Ask your insurer, and keep records. Coverage is their decision.
Sometimes, if it is a clean-water leak and caught early, though compressed or soaked batts are usually replaced. Blown-in insulation that has soaked is typically removed. A technician checks it with a meter.
A sump pump needs power, so a battery backup is worth considering. If water enters, see emergency water removal. Stay out of water near outlets.
Wind damage comes from above, through a damaged roof or wall. Flood comes from rising water on the ground. Insurers treat them differently, and flood needs its own policy. Describe how the water entered when you report a claim.